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Here are common questions and answers relating to Treble Cone...

Snow Skiing Questions

The following questions were posted in Yahoo's 'Snow Skiing' category:

Best snow NZ ski resort in September?

Full question:

Looking to ski in NZ in mid to late September, as this is the only time i am able to, but i was wondering which resort would offer me better snow at this time of year. I'm probably looking between Mt Ruapehu in Nth island or Treble Cone/Cardrona in South island. Any ideas?

Best answer:

Treble Cone/Cardrona. Usually around September, Queenstown is pretty much the only one with snow left. It's hard to tell though because NZ has unpredictable weather, some of the time.

which is the best ski resort?

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i'm going to go to New Zealand with my family this summer and is going to SKI!!! but we can't figure out which ski resort to go to we looked at the ski resorts and ended up with a few... coronet peak the remarkables cardrona treble cone IF YOU HAVE BEEN TO ANY OF THESE PLACES, PLEASE HELP!!!

Best answer:

Treble Cone is the best I think. Cardrona is fun too. The remarkables is nice because its so close to queenstown and there is a lot to do there. Coronet is close to queenstown, but its not very good. I wouldn't recommend it. I would recommend planning a visit to the three best places...that way you can experience it all!! And you may as well if you're only going to be in New Zealand for a once in a lifetime vacation!! Also, make sure you rent a 4wheel drive vehicle to get to the resorts...the roads are incredibly dangerous (especially to Treble Cone)...be careful!!

Questions from Other Categories

The following questions were posted in various Yahoo's categories other than 'Snow Skiing' - hopefully they are relevant:

What is the mobile/cell phone reception like up in Treble Cone (NZ Snow)?

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Best answer:

According to the Vodafone website- New Zealand Coverage The following coverage is predicted for TREBLE CONE: 2G/2.5G coverage in your area Best This location has a very strong signal, so you will definitely experience excellent quality for all services. Your mobile data connection will be as fast as a dial-up connection. According to Telecom, there is coverage there. Check out this link and click 'Queenstown'. http://www.telecom.co.nz/content/0,8748,204420-1066,00.html ...

Which ski field around queenstown has the most reliable snow in mid July?

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Is it worth going the extra distance to Treble Cone?

Best answer:

Coronet peak or treble cone.

is it hard to get a job on the new zealand ski fields?

Full question:

treble cone,mt hutt,ect

Best answer:

Not if you have a ski instructors certificate. The ski season is from approx Jun-Sep.

Which New Zealand ski field should we go to?

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My family and I are visiting the south island of New Zealand in late August/early September and we're staying in Queenstown for about a week, so we want to do some skiing or snowboarding (my sister and I are leaning towards snowboarding), but we've never been skiing/snowboarding before. Which ski field should we go to? I've heard that Treble Cone and Coronet Peak are more geared towards experienced boarders, and that the Remarkables and Cardrona are better for beginners. I'm thinking of maybe going to Cardrona for a couple of days first, while we're learning the basics, and then maybe trying out one of the other fields. What do you think?

Best answer:

They all have beginner areas for people to learn skiing. Coronet Peak have quite a good training school while Cardrona is geared more towards family's. Either Cardrona or Coronet Peak should get you on the way. The Remarkables is also quite good but I prefer the other two. Try them all, do the learning at Coronet Peak or Cardrona then branch out and try a few. Skiing is apparently easier to learn then snowboarding.

working holiday New Zealand?

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Im Irish 21 and was hoping to travel to new Zealand this may for 3 months for the skiing season.ill need to get a job, hopefully in a ski resort like Treble Cone or something. there are agreement between Ireland and New Zealand so i can get a working holiday visa for new zealand easy enough.But was wondering what way do i approach this. Do i Get the Visa and just Jet over and Hope for the best?. or do i secure a job first by going through a resort website and then jet over.has anybody done a working ski holiday in new zealand?How did you do it? was it hard to find a job? are the jobs on ski resorts Highly sought after.? I Don't have any ski teaching qualifications though i have worked as a lifeguard,Bar person, porter,cad designer and am a 3rd engineering student (1 year left) .id do almost any job as long as it pays enough to keep me there and do some snowboarding. Any advice would be appreciated.

Best answer:

In reply to user Pagrus: ignore them big time - they have been copying and pasting this answer to every NZ question. Apply now - you won't lose anything for trying. For Treble Cone Applications for the 2008 winter season open on the 16th of January and close on the 9th of April 2008. Applications received without the correct application form, covering letter and CV will not be considered. Download the application form, complete it and post it to Human Resources, PO Box 206, Wanaka. http://www.treblecone.co.nz/Employment/jobs.asp Apply to have a working holiday in New Zealand. http://www.immigration.govt.nz/migrant/stream/work/workingholiday Jobs for Ski Patroller http://www2.careers.govt.nz/search.html?cx=005560351540093849723%3A7fgyfsdz7tc&sa=Search&q=Ski+Field+Patroller&cof=FORID%3A11&searchButton.x=30&searchButton.y=9#1027 http://www.workingin-newzealand.com is also a great site

why does my left subwoofer turn on and off?

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i have two 12" kenwoods and when i turn them on my right one hits but i just hear very light treble coming out the left and once i push the cone of the subwoofer it cuts on...i need help to find out wats the problem maybe the speaker is bad

Best answer:

Help me fix my bass guitar amp?

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So, I was being clumsy the other day and yada yada yada I spilt yogurt on my amp and it went into the cone of it. Now whenever I play the bass through it, there is no bass frequency, only treble. The bass frequency does tend to cut in after a few minutes of playing however. Is there a way to fix this that anyone knows of? Thanks for the response!!

Best answer:

Like the last answerer said. They may not need to recone or replace the speaker though. It could be as simple as cleaning it up. You might be able to do this yourself. Unplug it, open it up, and see what you can do. Stay far away from the electronics in the actual amp part of your combo. Just mess with the speaker. There's stuff in the actual amplifier that could shock you so badly it could kill you. If that doesn't work or you don't really want to risk forgetting how to put everything back, just take it in. Should be pretty cheap.

6X9 Capabilities in a home setup?

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I went snooping around at my grandmother's house a while back and I found some 6X9 speaker with a built in tweeter and mid-range drive. It's a "white van" brand speaker, Pyramid Phase III. It's rated at 4 ohms with no wattage info (similar models are 400W, though). I wanted to know the ***general*** bass response of a 6X9 inch woofer with a .5 inch foam surround (not rotted at all, when pushed lightly it doesn't crack or anything), frequency response of a 2.5 inch mid range speaker and the treble response of a 1.5 inch tweeter. All drivers are cone-style and the woofer is made of plastic-like material (I know it's called something else, rather than plastic but it isn't coming to me). The tweeter and mid range both have really thin aluminum film cones while the woofer has a fairly thick cone. How would this speaker perform used as a center channel and with no frequency limitations (it would play the full spectrum, although I have a sub to help with bass of course)? I'm not 100% on the enclosure I will use but I just want to know how it will perform if everything is done right. The enclosure will be a small as I can get it, so keep that in mind. Here is a similar model but my model is different: http://www.pyramidcaraudio.com/sku/6908GS/6-x-9-400-Watts-Three-Way-Speakers My model is a 6970P but don't bother looking it up, you won't find much. Also the woofer magnet is pretty big with a 4 inch diameter. Sorry this is a lot of info to digest! Notes: I know this is a car speaker I got this free that's why I want to use it, don't recommend anything else I'm make this just for fun and if it works well I may use it temporarily Recommended amps would help but you don't have to include As mentioned, I know pyramid isn't a great brand I don't have the sub yet so yeah I will use this temporarily for bass if it can perform Your answer doesn't have to be very long. Exact frequency response isn't needed but something like: "about 40 hz" will do I will use a sealed enclosure, look at my old questions and you'll know why it won't be ported (chuffing) Thanks guys! They aren't actually white van speakers haha they just aren't great, they've been used and have worked fine.

Best answer:

You (and we) can't really know how it will sound until you try it. A cheap way to lget an idea of how it will sound is by using card board boxes to test it out. But based on experience and modeling, I'm pretty much sure you cant get much bass (below 80Hz) out of it, especially with a small sealed. In a small box you'd, probably get a decent bump in the midbass region around 100-150Hz. With a 6.5" that uses a fairly big box, it should have similar air space needs to most 6x9 car speakers, since most 6x9 use the same motor(magnet) as 6.5" speakers. Sealed: Simulated/modeliing. Results: 0.25cu ft box = gets a +2db peak @ 130-180Hz, 0db at 110Hz, and (f3)-3db @ 90Hz, -10db @ 60hz. (60Hz and below are less than half the volume) With a 0.5cu ft sealed, a flatter response with f3 at around 80Hz, -10db at 50Hz (50Hz are less than half the volume). To reach 40Hz at decent volume level compared to the rest, you'd need a relatively big ported box. There is nothing wrong with ported if the port hole/area is large enough to minimize port noise and smooth port opening(flared or sanded sharp edges). I'm guessing 0.5cf is you might want to go. 0.5cu ft tuned to 60hz, 2in diameter round port at 3in length: +2db rise @120-140hz, 0db at 80hz, -3db at 66h, -10db at 45hz Those are with 6.5" speakers, but response shouldn't far off.

Recording Distorted Guitar?

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I have a Shure SM57, a Fender FM212R, and a PRS Santana SE guitar with a BOSS Mega Distortion pedal. I try to record my metal songs on Cubase LE 5, but the guitars sound really crappy with distortion. What should my settings be on my pedals (Volume, Tone, Distortion, Gain) or on my amp (Volume, Treble, Mid, Bass) please help! (My mic is placed on the outer cone to the right.)

Best answer:

Try recording directly from your Effects loop and don't use the microphone. As far as settings go, you need to adjust them slowly and get the sound you want on the amp, then add in the distortion pedal and adjust it until you have want you want. I use a BOSS GT-10 guitar effects processor and I record directly from the GT-10 and it always sounds great. The purpose of the amplifier it simply to add volume to the tone coming from the effects processor so, I don't use my amp when I record. Try this: Connect your guitar to the BOSS Distortion pedal, plug the distortion pedal into either the Power In or Guitar in port and connect the Pre Out port to your Computer interface for recording. In Cubase, add a compressor to the guitar track and adjust it as necessary. If you are not using a USB computer interface like an M-audio or Avid Mbox, then that will give you poor sound quality when you record because you are recording through the computers sound card.

What amp would i need for this system?

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Alpine SPR-13S Type R Split System x2 system includes two 5-1/4" woofers, 2 tweeters, and 2 crossovers hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround 1" textile ring-dome tweeter external crossovers — 12 dB per octave (high-pass) and 6 dB per octave (low-pass) 7-level tweeter adjustment power range: 8-100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power) frequency response: 70-27,000 Hz sensitivity: 86 dB top-mount depth: 2-3/16" Alpine SWR 1222D x2 Alpine SWR 1222D Type R 12" (30cm) subwoofer 1500W Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer The Alpine SWR-1222D is a 12'' dual 2-ohm voice coil. The cone is Kevlar reinforced with Santoprene rubber surround for extended life. Features Power Handling: 200-500 watts RMS (250 watts per coil Peak Power: 1500 watts Sensitivity: 85 dB * Frequency Handling: 23-500 Hz Alpine iDA-X100 x1 Alpine iDA-X100 Digital Media Receiver Dedicated for your iPod * • Remote Control: Remote Control Ready * • Mute: Built-in Audio Mute * • Audio Interrupt: Audio Interrupt Input * • Remote Turn-On: Amplifier Remote Turn-On Output * • Power Antenna Lead: Power Antenna Output * • Dimmer: Dimmer Input * • Detachable Face Plate: Detachable Controls * • DIN Trim Plate: Detachable Trim Plate * • Calender: Built-In Calender * • Clock: Built-In Clock * • Fader & Balance: Fader & Balance Controls * • Bass & Treble: Bass & Treble Controls * • Steering Wheel Control: Steering Wheel Control Ready * • Auxiliary Input: Versatile-Link Ready (KCA-121B Auxiliary Input) * • DAC: 24-Bit Burr Brown DAC * • Bluetooth®: Bluetooth Ready * • PreOut: 3 PreOut (2V PreOut) * • USB Input: Full Speed USB Connection or USB Memory/Portable Device * • Easy Navigating: Quick Search * • Playback: MP3/AAC/WMA Playback * • Illumination Buttons: Blue/Red Illuminated Buttons * • Face Color: Dark Silver * • iPersonalize: i-Personalize (Wallpaper Only) * • Control Type: Double-Action Encoder * • Display: 2.2'' High Resolution TFT Color Display * • CD Changer: CD Changer Control * • Power Output: 50W x 4 High Power Amplifier * • Steering Wheel Remote ready * • IMPRINT ready (PXA-H100 required) * • 24-Bit Burr Brown DA I would like to stick to Alpine, Thanks

Best answer:

I would look into the Cross-fire amps or possibly Arc Audio if you want something that will compete with what you have now or just stick with Alpine....

Did I nearly kill the spider in one of my Pioneer speakers?

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I have a few questions regarding a crackling noise I was experiencing from one of my four Pioneer TS-A1671R speakers. Note that I have no extra power going to these. It's all straight from my Pioneer DEH-1700 stereo. Anyway I was playing a song yesterday with some pretty intense bass when my front, right speaker started making the dreaded crackling noise. I thought I had blown something obviously but I checked it this morning and simply put some pressure on the cone with my fingers while the bass was hitting and the noise went away...even after I removed my hand from the cone. The only thing I can think of is that the spider got popped out in an odd position and when I was applying pressure while the bass hit, it somehow popped back in place? Does this sound like the most logical explanation? I put the stereo and all four speakers in at the same time a few (about three) years ago and I haven't really played too much bass on them up until the last half year or little longer. Judging from both the stereos and speaker's specs, I don't see how it could throw enough juice to them to do that. I even had the music faded two level to the rear speakers instead of the front...so you would think one of them one have done it before either of the front ones. Surely these speakers have a lot more life left in them or should I take it easy on the bass from now on? A couple other notes: I had the volume on level 16 or 17 with BTB (bass and treble booster) on at the time. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Thanks for the comments, guys. Very helpful information. I've played the song that it done it on and it sounds fine. The speaker makes no crackle noise at all now (knock on wood) since I applied a little pressure on the cone with my fingers while the bass was hitting. I was just wondering if since apparently something did malfunction with the spider, does that make that speaker more vulnerable?

Best answer:

if your spider popped out, it most likely won't pop back in. It sounds like you pretty much blown that speaker. And believe it or not, people more often blow their speakers and even their massive subwoofers when you "under power" it. By under powering your speakers/subs, people have a tendency to try and get every last juice from their HU/amp to get a little more bass than what is deemed safe. So even though you're not hearing distortion when you turn up your HU, you might actually be pumping more noise into your voicecoils than you think... which then overheats it and ruins your speaker. People think the only way you can blow a speaker is by pumping more power than they can handle. What they don't realize is that the opposite is also true.

is this a good amp for my sub?

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AMP I FOUND FORSALE Output Power(max/Peak) 500Watts (250W x 2 Load 4 ohms) Bridged Output Power(max/Peak) 500Watts (500W x 1 Load 4 ohms) Frequency Response 20Hz~20KHz ±1dB Input Sensitivity < 200mv Treble Control ±10dB 10KHz Bass Control ±10dB 80Hz Signal/Noise Ratio 95dB Speaker Impedance Stereo Output 2~16 Ω Bridged Output 4~16 Ω Power Supply DC 12V Dimensions 285(L) x 199(W) x 49(H) mm FOR SUB I GOT 30cm (12”) Component Subwoofer 800W Max TS-W302R FEATURES: IMPP cone Aluminium voice coil bobbin Single nomex damper Copper round wire long voice coil Extended and vented pole yoke Single 4 Ω voice coil

Best answer:

yeah it should be fine just make sure to bridge the amp to get more power and when buying an amp tryi to go by one that says the rms rating of the amp and the rms rating on the sub

Kenwood bass package vs. Rockford Fosgate bass package. Which is better?

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this is the kenwood package which comes with 2 subs and an amp. Kenwood KAC-8104D Amplifier: Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan. Max power output: 1000 watts x 1 chan. MOSFET power supply LED power indicator Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz) Speaker-level inputs with signal sensing for automatic turn-on) Preamp RCA outputs Short circuit, DC offset, overload, and thermal protection circuitry Aluminum die cast heat sink Built-in cooling fan Gold-plated RCA level inputs Gold-plated screw terminals Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) CEA-2006 compliant amplifier Frequency response: 5-200 Hz Dimensions: 11"L x 2-5/16"H x 9-3/8"D Kenwood KFC-W3011 Subwoofer: 12" Single 4 ohms Subwoofer Power Handling Peak Power: 1200 watts RMS Power: 400 watts 12" {30cm} Stainless Coated Cone High Excursion Rubber Surround 62.7 oz. Double Stacked Magnet 8 AWG Speaker Wire Capable Push Terminal Super Linear Spider Long Stroke Structure this is the Rockford fosgate package which also come with 2 subs and an amp. Punch P300-1 mono amplifier: 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms (150 watts RMS x 1 output at 4 ohms) CEA-2006 compliant variable high- and low-pass filters (50-500 Hz, 12 dB per octave) variable bass/treble boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz, 0-12 dB at 12,000 Hz) Class-AB amplifier design with MOSFET output and power supply preamp inputs optional wired remote bass boost 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier 8-15/16"W x 2-1/4"H x 8-7/16"D Punch Stage 1 4-ohm subwoofer: 12" molded polypropylene woofer with poly-foam surround power handling: 50-150 watts RMS (300 watts peak power) frequency response: 26-250 Hz sensitivity: 86 dB top-mount depth: 5-1/2" sealed box volume: 0.7-1.80 cubic feet ported box volume: 1.79 cubic feet I know the kenwood is pushing more watts, but I also know that that doesn't necessarily mean it's louder or better. I'm looking for loud, but I also want quality clean sound. Does anyone have any input on which is louder or which will sound better? The price, by the way, is 200 for the kenwood package and 300 for the Rockford fosgate package. Also, a friend of mine has the kenwood package and it's nice and loud, but it sounds a little sloppy to me, mostly I'm just wondering if Rockford fosgate will sound any better. If the Rockford fosgate sounds just as good or better than the kenwood then I'd like to go with it since it doesn't use as many watts so I don't fry my alternator. I know it's a pretty loaded question, but thanks in advance.

Best answer:

I'm normally inclined towards RF, but this particular setup, you will achieve more sound from the kenwood setup. The kenwood mono class d amps are good, clean and efficient. More power but it is more efficient than the punch series of amps, so roughly equal draw on your charging system. If you want loud and clean, Rockford T500.1bd amp,1- P3-D212 or 1 "T1 D212 http://onlinecarstereo.com.... about 450.00 for the first setup, class bd hybrid amp is about 86% efficient too

Want to install new subs and amp,dont know what to look at...?

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looking at a few subs and some amps online and heres my problem, idk what to get and idk if the amps go good with the subs. Choice 1: Kenwood eXcelon (premium series) 1000 watt 4 channel amp # 4-channel car amplifier # 88 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (124 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) # 270 watts x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) # variable high- and low-pass filters (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave low-pass, 12 dB/octave high-pass) # variable bass control (-15 to +15 dB selectable for 60/80/100/200 Hz and selectable Q factor) # subsonic filter (channels 3,4 — 15 Hz, 24 dB/octave) # variable treble control (-15 to +15 dB selectable for 10/12.5/15/17.5 kHz) # A.M.S. (Amplifier Management System) # AMP Information Display (voltage, current, temperature, cooling fan speed) # 2-speed cooling fan # gold-plated preamp inputs and outputs # CEA-2006 compliant # fuse rating: 30A x 2 # 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier # 17-5/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 10-1/2"D Powering 2 12" # 12" Single 4 Ohm eXcelon Series Shallow Subwoofer # Power Handling: * Peak: 1400 watts * RMS: 350 watts # Impedance: Single 4 ohm # Glass carbon fiber cone # Butyl rubber surround # Super linear spider # Aluminum diecast basket # Heat transfer system # Frequency response: 30-700 Hz # Sensitivity: 91 dB OR Choice 2: JL Audio A Series A6450 6 Channel Amp # 6-channel car amplifier # at 14.4 volts: * 70 watts RMS x 6 at 4 ohms (110 watts RMS x 6 at 2 ohms) * 220 watts RMS x 3 bridged at 4 ohms # at 12.5 volts: * 45 watts RMS x 6 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 6 at 2 ohms) * 150 watts RMS x 3 bridged at 4 ohms # differential-balanced inputs # Advanced Rollback Protection System # variable high- and low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) # switchable bass boost on ch. 5 and 6 (0, 6 dB at 48 Hz) # optional wired remote bass boost # Absolute Symmetry™ Class-AB amplifier design # MOSFET power and output stages # preamp-level inputs # speaker-level input with optional converter # 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 60-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier # no onboard fuses — when installing multiple amps in a system, an additional 60-amp in-line fuse between the distribution block and the amplifier is recommended # 18-1/8"W x 2-1/2"H x 9-1/4"D Powering MMats Pro Audio P2.5 10" Subwoofers # Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coils # Fs (Hz) 24 # Vas (Liters) 72.7 # Qts .11 # SPL (1W/1M) 88 dB # Power (Wrms) 400 # Mounting Depth (inches) 5-5/8" # Hole Diameter(inches) 9-3/16" # Speaker Displacement (cuft.) .10 AND POWERING 4 Sony Xplōd™ GT Series Speakers (that i already have installed) * Power Handling Capacity : 190 Watts * Rated Input : 40 watts * Frequency Response : 50-23,000 Hz * Impedance : 4 ohm * Sensitivity (db) : 87+/-2dB(1m,1W) I dont know what the best would be, can anyone help?

Best answer:

god you poor thing your confused ok first decide how many watts you want in your system have you thought of it ok next step find either 1 sub that puts out that many watts (space saver) or two subs that put out that many watts combined (more doable if you want more power or want to add subs) ok when youve made youre decision if you went with option 1 find a amp with two channels (i know this sounds dumb cause you only have one sub right but just believe me) that puts out around the rms watts of the sub you picked while in briged operation (both channels combined to make 1 strong channel) if you went with option two you need to find a mono class D amp that puts out the power that the two subs added together can handel at two ohms (so for ex if the subs are 100w rms each the amp needs to be 200w rms at 2 ohms) wire them in parrallel oh great i overlooked the fact that you already have 4 speakers so in addition to the subs amps you need a dual 4 channel amp from walmart IF the rms is per each speaker if its per pair than putting more power into them will blow them and your head should be enough sony tends to say how many watts per pair so you have to divide by 2 (theyre prolly 20w each) if you do get the dual 4 channel amp the specs are 50w rms x4 so it should be good for those speakers and its the cheapest price for a 4 channel i would suggest learning more about car audio before buying more stuff you can learn alot at crutchfeild.com i got a vid for you here http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learn/videos/amplifiers/amp-channels.html cause i know you dont believe me about the channels im not tryin to be mean im tryin to help you save money and invest in a good system good luck hope it turns out ok

Car Speakers humming?

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So I have had these speakers for about a year now, and well a week ago I was Cranking some Local H and the sound was all clear with good levels of bass and treble. And then I begin hearing some thuds and I look behind me and my rear speaker woofer cones are slamming into the tweeters in front of them. So I turn the sound way down, and I am hearing this new humming noise. So I try unplugging everything and plugging them back in. I tried messing with filter setting on the amp, I tried playing with the different settings with in the stereo. And I find that the oddest part is that when I use my blinkers, the speakers are also clicking, When I turn my headlights on or off they click, or when I am using my AC/Heater Blower it amplifies the whine to almost defining levels. Even when I start the truck or turn it off the whine raises before it drops or when I press on the gas pedal ... I read some of the other similar questions and they suggested a filter or a conditioner? I am not exactly sure why I would need that especially since Ive had this same setup for a year and it just recently started. Granted I must confess I had never really played music on these that loud before... But I will note that if the humming is ignored the sound out of all 6 speakers are still the same... Amp: Sony Xplod 800w Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7700MP Speakers: Some sort of Infinity Speakers

Best answer:

sounds like you may have a ground loop.....you could just get a ground loop isolator/filter and put it on you RCA line to the amp.. if the ground loop is the problem

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